Last Roadtrip... Looking back

As we celebrated our one year stay in Sweden we took a drive down one of my favorite places in Sweden, the countryside. We drove along the 180 road to Alingsås and found the most amazing villages and towns along the way!  The lakes in the countryside were still frozen! Driving along the many lakes outside of Gothenburg and seeing a figure or two ice-skating on it, was truly remarkable.  In Gothenburg all the snow and ice already melted away into the abyss of the winter and forgotten memories of snow was packed away into my camera's memory.  But in the countryside people still risked (or knew their lakes) skating on thin ice in the early spring sun. 

I was completely taken aback by the small, but lively town of Alingsås.  A church, a square, small, cute shops and beautiful waterways surrounding the town and meeting the lake on the outskirts.  This town has a truly Swedish vibe to it.  And I have to say the cleanest town I've ever been in.  The streets are perfectly sweeped and the houses and shops perfectly painted in pastel and the swedish-red colored buildings.  The church is quaint and inviting and the streets a dream to wonder about. 

I've recently read the poems of Karin Boye, the famous Swedish poet and writer who committed suicide and who's body was found close to Alingsås. Knowing this while visiting Alingsås, I imagined I felt a deep contentment, a deep respect for the unknown and a deep appreciation for life.

Statue of Karin Boye in Gothenburg, Sweden

Öckerö, guinea pigs and a sunset

After about an hour's tram ride from where I live to Botaniska Trädgård, I met my friend and work colleague, Cheri and her son Samson. We drove in her car to the ferry port, Lilla Varholmen, where we (and the car) got on the ferry, no charge, and enjoyed the sights of the surrounding islands. The ferry ride only takes about 10 to 15 minutes.

Arriving on Öckerö we made our way to Martha's (from El Salvadore) house, also a friend and work colleague. She has a beautiful house and it was such a treat to meet her family. Her seven year old daughter, Alice, showed us her guinea pigs and rabbits, which she's very proud of.

A week before the visit Martha asked me at work if I am allergic to anything, if there's anything I do not eat. And if I am allergic to guinea pigs or rabbits. Immediately I thought, how am I going to tell this women that I'm not going to eat guinea pigs or rabbits. And I was thinking I am not Rita Golden Gelman, author of "Tales of a Female Nomad", who vowed to eat everything on her travels that she was offered. I try to follow that travel rule, but sometimes I fail.... . I then scrapped up the courage and told her that I don't think I would be able to eat guinea pig, maybe rabbits, but not guinea pig. Suddenly she burst out laughing so hard I immediately realized my mistake and joined in... 

Lunch did not consist out of guinea pigs or rabbits. It was a delicious creamy chicken and mushroom dish with a hint of spice. After lunch we went for a walk around the island where I realised there's a library, a supermarket, lots of boats, a rocket spaceship thing on a huge rock (which no-one knew what it was) on the island and Alice's school. I was impressed with the whole island community existence and learned that Öckerö is quite and old community. There is even a sea-training facility on the island.
After our walk we went home to get out of the cold. Martha's husband made us some delicious Swedish coffee and we ate left-over birthday cake. (Alice had her birthday party the day before). I had two slices of the delicious, homemade birthday cake.
Our trip home was exciting. Me, Cheri and Samson chasing sunsets in a glorified, golden sky. Cheri stopping now and then for me to jump out, take a picture of the setting sun over the mirror-flat water. Then driving over the big green Gothenburg bridge provided one of the most amazing sunset settings I've ever seen. A full, red-ish sun falling in the sky like a fire-ish red balloon with skyscrapers and big cranes in the background forming magnificent dark shadows... shadows in a golden sky.

Journey to a Swedish island...

I'm on my way to the island Öckerö to visit a friend and enjoy a Sunday lunch. It's quite a long journey, but looking forward to what surprises the afternoon might offer.

On my ipod I have the following to keep me company:
Florence and the machine
Swedish band First Aid Kit
South African bands Freshly Ground and off course Prime Circle ;)
The Amelie sountrack (for the French side of me) ;)
Snow Patrol - Called out in the dark (a new favorite)
Russian Red which I love
Swedish Melissa Horn
And oldies...Pink Floyd and Alanis

The day is grey, but winter started to move on, making way for small buds, green grass and warmer skies. Lets hope for some sunshine on the island of Öckerö.

Old movies, Chinese tea and the snow outside

Today is Valentine's day or as they call it in Swedish, Alla hjärtans dag.  Hubby is working and I am on holiday as it is Sportlov (the official Swedish Ski holiday).  I am not going skiing.  But I am saving my energy for Italy, Rome, on Thursday.  We are thus postponing Alla hjärtans dag to Friday!

I'm spending my time re-organizing my cupboards, drawers and life.  Planning and distributing things I don't need to the waste basket.  Building on my "dream-file" - a file I have covered in collages of pictures of beautiful, exotic places I still want to visit (PS. everybody should have a dream-file.  It's a lot of fun!). 

After all my shuffling about, I start to get tired - the typical holiday relaxation mood.  And the snow falling outside contributes to my mood.  I put on an old movie that I've been meaning to watch for a while, a 1946 film - It's a Wonderful life.  I enjoy the energy with which the actors played in those days and all the drama, songs and words strung together which makes the 1940's the 1940's.  I take out my Chinese tea (bought in China and send to Sweden in a box after we left Asia) and my 5 kronor (R5) IKEA tea strainer, make a cup of delicious tea and sit back and enjoy Alla hjärtans dag!

May you have a relaxed Alla hjärtans dag!

A snowflake on my boot today

It started to snow.  My first knee-deep, thick-patched, soft-bright-white snow.  Everything felt perfect.  Not even the too-hot heaters on the tram could spoil my mood.  It wasn't too cold or too dark, just perfect.  The snow seemed to have a white-balance effect on me. 

As I listened to Comptine D'Un Autre Ete - L'Apres Midi and J'Y Suis Jamais Alle (my new favorites from the soundtrack Le Fabuleux Destin D' Amelie), it seemed as if the bells, accordion and piano fell into perfect rhythm with the falling snowflakes.  And I too, fell into a perfect, peaceful rhythm. 

On my way to the tram stop I stuck out my tongue to catch a few snowflakes.  It tasted sweet.

I listened to Guilty (a old gramophone recording, from Le Fabuleux Destin D' Amelie),  re-living the old days where snow also fell, but on an older Gothenburg.  Where people walked the streets in gowns, top-hats, long black jackets and canes; where old cars drove through the snowy streets greeted by the occasional horse-carriage.  I was in a dream, a wonderland.  And then I fell with my new white playthings back down to earth.

Now I am filled with snowflakes, from the inside out; filled up and filled with.  I love every moment of my new, white ambiance.

 

Kids falling to the ground right and left to make snow angels!

 

A Swedish Christmas

Donald Duck, Pickled herring,  and nubbe - A Swedish Christmas

My Swedish Christmas began at 2 o’clock on Julafton, December 24.

But I started the day in my own kitchen in my apartment trying to dust off the spider-webbed- baker in me.  My chocolate brownies and carrot cake mixes weren’t really meant for cupcake holders, but I tried it, but left it in the oven too long.  I warned my hosts beforehand, but they were very polite and tried my cupcakes in the end.... (The forgotten memories of baking have not yet returned, but I am willing to give it another go in the maybe-near-future).

We arrived at 2 at our hosts, a Swedish family who will always be close to my heart and who were kind enough to invite us along for Christmas.  First glögg (mulled wine) is prepared in a pot on the stove and served in small coffee cups.  We brought Lingonberry glögg (cow berrier).  I love the taste and warmth of glögg.

At precisely 3.00, the TV is switched on and is it time for the oldest and most steadfast Christmas tradition in Sweden: the collection of short clips out of popular Walt Disney cartoons or movies.  Donald Duck (Kalle Anka in Swedish), Mickey Mouse (Musse Pigg), Goofy (Långben), Chip and dale (Piff och Puff), Cinderella (Askungen), Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs (Snövit och de sju dvärgarna) all make their appearance in this half hour-watched-by-all-Swedes tradition.  This is probably one of the strangest Swedish traditions I've ever seen. The Swedes watch the same episode that has been screened for the past 50 years, every year.  Only the last 5 minutes of the show is changed every year. This year Timon and Pumba made their appearance in the last 5 minutes.  The strangest of the whole tradition is that it is dubbed, but you can still hear the original English audio, e.g. Donald Duck’s voice.  The dubbed voice is an ordinary man talking in an ordinary voice, in Swedish, not in a Donald Duck or Goofy voice. What an interesting tradition!  But what I found is that it brings the whole family together; the adults look forward to the whole event just as much as the children.  And newbies introduced to the tradition (me) enjoyed it as much as everyone else! And what I loved most is the Swedes know all the words of it as well as all words of the songs!  But this creates a warm and cozy feeling before the Julbord!
 

Next on the agenda is the Christmas feast or Julbord, as it's known in Swedish. The standards include Christmas ham, pickled herring, meatballs, soft cheeses, smoked salmon, “prince sausage” (small sausages with what looks like crowns at each end) and potato bake - a smorgasbord of Christmas delights. All this is combined with the drinking of nubbe (Swedish snaps).  And if you have to not-drink-and-drive there is always Julmust - a special Christmas coke that was introduced to me and which I came to love.  It almost tastes like cherry coke.  Julmust is (according to my knowledge) only available over Christmas and comes in bottles with Christmas labels and all.

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Julmust

After a lot of indulging, eating, sometimes singing and laughing, the table is cleared and the children are told that Santa could be on his way.  Santa in Sweden is not a phantom-like visitor that fills up children's stockings while they sleep. No, the bearded man in the red suit delivers presents to children face to face, usually after the Julbord. At this time, the dads of Sweden conveniently step out to go and "buy the newspaper". 

After the visit from Santa and the opening of all the presents it is time for coffee and “something with the coffee”.   I was introduced to the miniature red and green cupcake holders with the most delicious toffee mix they call knäck.  They also warn you beforehand that it is very dangerous for your teeth.  I loved the caramel-toffee-nutty taste.  I sucked long and hard as not to lose a tooth.  With the knäck they served a dark brown toffee mix in silver cupcake holders.  This they call kola.  Also a delicious sweet-dark-toffee-pudding mix which is better eaten with a spoon.

While enjoying coffee, with a Swedish-whiskey twist, the adults (who brought two presents each) choose two numbers written on small pieces of paper.  The presents with your numbers on is yours.  Everyone waits for all to receive a present, which the dad of the house gives out and then everyone opens theirs together.  PS. I loved my gifts!
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knäck

After cleaning and coffee everyone relax in front of the television for a traditional Swedish movie.

Christmas in Sweden is very different to the ones I've had in South Africa, Argentina and South Korea, but it also has it's similarities. It was a great experience and definitely one of the highlights of my time in Sweden.

God Jul och Gott nytt År!

Merry Christmas and a happy new year!

Saint Lucia Day

I was privileged to take part in a school’s Saint Lucia celebration on the 13^th of December. 

What a warm and wonderful tradition to get you in the Christmas spirit!  Candle light, beautiful songs, pepperkakor (gingerbread cookies), white robes, red ribbons and a lot of singing are going around Sweden this time of year.  A lot of practicing for the big Saint Lucia event takes place beforehand. Traditionally one girl wears a crown of candles (or lights) on her head while others hold only a single candle each. 

The Saint Lucia event I attended took place at Annedalskyrkan (church) in Gothenburg. 

A bit of history:

St. Lucy is believed to have been a Sicilian saint who suffered a martyr's death in Syracuse, Sicily around AD 310. According to the legend she was seeking help for her mother's long-term illness at the shrine of Saint Agnes, in her native Sicily, when an angel appeared to her in a dream beside the shrine. As a result of this, Lucy became a devout Christian, refused to compromise her virginity in marriage and was denounced to the Roman authorities by the man she would have wed. They threatened to drag her off to a brothel if she did not renounce her Christian beliefs, but were unable to move her, even with a thousand men and fifty oxen pulling. So they stacked materials for a fire around her instead and set light to it, but she would not stop speaking, insisting that her death would lessen the fear of it for other Christians and bring grief to non-believers. One of the soldiers stuck a spear through her throat to stop these denouncements, but to no effect. Soon afterwards, the Roman consulate in charge was hauled off to Rome on charges of theft from the state and beheaded. Saint Lucy was able to die only when she was given the Christian sacrament.

In another story, Saint Lucy was working to help Christians hiding in the catacombs during the terror under the Roman Emperor Diocletian, and in order to bring with her as many supplies as possible, she needed to have both hands free. She solved this problem by attaching candles to a wreath on her head.

The song:
The lyrics to the song we sang, (I love the sound of the Swedish on my tongue):

Sankta Lucia

Translation

Natten går tunga fjät, runt gård och stuga. Kring jord som sol'n förlät, skuggorna ruva. Då i vårt mörka hus, stiga med tända ljus, Sankta Lucia, Sankta Lucia. Natten var stor och stum. Nu hör det svingar, i alla tysta rum, sus som av vingar. Se på vår tröskel står vitkläd, med ljus i hår, Sankta Lucia, Sankta Lucia. Mörkret skall flykta snart ur jordens dalar. Så hon ett underbart ord till oss talar. Dagen skall åter ny, stiga ur rosig sky, Sankta Lucia, Sankta Lucia.

Hark! through the darksome night Sounds come a winging: Lo! 'tis the Queen of Light Joyfully singing. Clad in her garment white, Wearing her crown of light, Santa Lucia, Santa Lucia! Deep in the northern sky Bright stars are beaming; Christmas is drawing nigh Candles are gleaming. Welcome thou vision rare, Lights glowing in thy hair. Santa Lucia, Santa Lucia!

(Images from the web; research: - www.wikipedia.com)

One Swedish afternoon

I took a tram ride downtown as the fog set slowly down on the streets of Gothenburg.  It was already dark.  With the sounds of Regina Spector - her eerie, but fantastic voice and brilliant lyrics - in my ears, she blended in with the fog which in return blended in with the newly-lit-Christmas lights.  The fog covered the street with hollow drowsiness and a sleepy overflow covered me up like a blanket.  The streets walked lonely, dark past me, with their only companion:   The Fog.  The water canal lay still, quiet, lifeless and awaiting the lights to come dance on it.  A mirror image of the Gothenburg world reflected in the water as I passed.  The eerie stillness calmed me, supported my hurried soul.  It whispered in my ear: I have to go there; I have to walk those streets in the foggy nothingness and hopefully find my footsteps back.

All about Gothenburg

May 2011:  After a long winter I took a walk "on the bright side" of Gothenburg as it was my first Sunny and blue-skied day since I arrived in March.  During the following spring I watched flowers bloom gorgeously over the canals and loved every moment of it.



Gustav Adolf Torg



The German Church (also known as the Christina Church) lies in central Gothenburg.

Statues next to the Gothenburg Art Museum

Poseidon (1931) at the top of Avenyn at Götaplatsen



Poseidon in front of the Art Museum


 (Oktober 2011:  Poseidon taking a Spa month):

 

Beginning of Spring

Walking down the Avenue I found:

Enjoying the sun

A trip with a Paddan (the boat) along the canals and out in Göta Älv takes approx 50 minutes.

Kungsportplatsen

Postcards at a shop

Teenage bands filling the streets with music

Swedes love flowers, plants and their gardens

One of the many small shopping streets

Rent a bike (first 30 minutes are free) and see Gothenburg

After a long winter the Swedes were enjoying every bit of sunshine

Cherry blossoms in Spring time

Linnégatan:  multistory residential buildings built in the early 1900's. The street is a lively cafe and restaurant strip.

Spring time along the Göta Älv

The Wheel of Gothenburg